Common faults
A float hung up on the crock wall. A check flap that no longer seats, letting the column drain back so the pump short-cycles.
- A discharge line frozen at the outside end in winter.
- A clogged intake screen.
- A motor that hums but will not spin because the impeller is jammed with gravel.
Signs this is the job you need
- Motor buzzing while the water level sits still
- Pump runs without stopping
- Water near the top of the pit
- Pump cycles on and off rapidly
- Ice at the discharge outlet
Talk it through with a plumber
One call to (365) 364-2776 reaches someone who can tell you what the job involves and when a van can be at the door.
How the work goes
- We unplug the pump and remove it from the pit.
- We clean the intake, impeller and float.
- We test the check valve and discharge line.
- We repair or replace the pump.
- We test it with a full pit.
What we do
We unplug the pump, lift it, clean the intake and impeller, and check the float swings freely. We test the check valve and the discharge line all the way outside.
- If the motor is burnt out, we replace the pump.
- Before we leave, we fill the pit and watch it run a full cycle.
Asked on the phone line
How can I test my pump?
Tip a bucket into the crock; the motor should kick in, drain it and fall silent.
Can the sump hose just go into the floor drain?
No. Groundwater is meant to soak back into your lawn, not load the sanitary sewer.
How a call to us runs
- You ring (365) 364-2776 and a person picks up, not a menu.
- We ask where the water is, what you have already shut off and what decade the building went up in.
- We say when the van should pull up and what to do until it does.
- On site we show you the fault, give a firm price before starting and clean up after.
Phone booking keeps things quick: no forms, no portals, no follow-up emails trying to sell you a maintenance plan.